40th Birthday Amtrak California Zephyr Train Adventure (San Francisco to Chicago)

For my 40th, I wanted to do something different. Our friends Kara & Nate gave me the inspiration with their Amtrak Coast Starlight video along the west coast.  After a little research we decided on the California Zephyr route. 

Next step was to find out when grandparents could watch squirt. My parents had a busy Sept/Oct for their own travels and they came to town to celebrate my 40th with a sunset kayak tour and dinner with friends. The in-laws were free in Oct so I called up Amtrak to see when they had a sleeper available on the Zephyr.  We ended up on the Oct 15 departure from Emeryville (EMY) headed to Chicago. 

We flew out lunchtime on a Wed.  Our Southwest flight was completely full.

Once we arrived at SJO, we picked up the rental car and drove to Google Bayview campus and then over to Sports Page for a burger.

Then we got to sit in traffic heading into the city where we checked in and stretched our legs by taking a short walk to Aquatic Park Cove and the Fisherman's Wharf area.

You can see Alcatraz and Angel Island as we drove down the hill

People were swimming here. Too cold for me.

The next morning we took a tram to the Ferry building where we learned how to get a Clipper (transportation) card and then boarded a boat to Angel Island State Park. Used this helpful resource to plan our visit to the park.

leaving the Ferry building

Golden Gate bridge in the distance - we caught it on a clear day!

Alcatraz Island

approaching Angel Island

We decided to do a mix of hiking and history.  Signed up for the 11:30am tram that circumnavigates the island and you stop at a few spots and learn as you ride. We got off at Immigration Station and hiked to the top of Mt. Livermore then back to Ayala Cove to catch a return boat.

Before starting the hike, we toured the museum to learn how immigrants lived while at this place.  The island was also used for the military with a fort and camp.  The US Coast Guard still has a presence.

stove/kitchen set up

Really enjoyed the hike and the views along the way.  After we left the summit, a coyote kept posing for us as we continued along the trail.

poser

Made it back to the boat with minutes to spare for a return ferry. Once back on the mainland, we rented scooters to help us get up to the Coit Tower. Honestly, I was terrified to try it but did just fine as a former gymnast. The hardest part was going up hills... We had to assist the scooter in the really steep areas. My fear of falling over or getting hit were not realized thankfully.

Post scooter adventure we returned to the hotel to clean up and then picked a dinner spot. Settled on Scoma's and had the best salmon of my life paired with veggie risotto.

On Friday we grabbed McNuggets and ate them overlooking painted ladies, aka the Full House house.

We then drove to Lands End in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Was able to get a stamp in my NPS passport book and take a hike. The fog had settled in and we were not really able to see the Golden Gate bridge well.

After hiking, we drove across Golden Gate bridge for the northern route to Oakland/Emeryville area. We then check into a hotel that is across the tracks from the train station for tomorrow and walk around the Public Market. For dinner, we ate at a dear friend from home's house! It was so fun to see Stephanie. She was so kind to help us drop the rental car at the Oakland Airport then took us to the hotel.

A train from our balcony

Saturday morning I grabbed breakfast then it was time to get on train.  We were in car 631 room A (do not recommend this one if you have options) as it is a bit smaller than the other sleepers on this train.

Along the journey we people watched and chatted with a German/Polish guy taking a huge US train adventure (only seeing US by train).  He is hopping on and off in many places.  He got off our train in Elko, NV.  

hallway outside our cabin

our sleeper room (I slept in top bunk)

sink is in main part of room - wet bath (toilet + shower) behind sink wall

dining car

observation car

Near CA/NV close to Trukee, CA we got greenlight to pass a freight train holding us back.  We almost passed it, could see the engines, but then Union Pacific said nope so we had to pause and let them go.  Well, that train or another we passed coming the other way damaged the track so we had to backwards for quite some ways and get on the other track.  That put us several hours behind schedule.

Met a sweet family from Shenandoah Valley region in Virginia.  They were traveling with their three boys - the youngest was about 12 days younger than R! Some other folks we met were a couple from southern England, a couple that splits time between Hawaii/Louisville, KY, a couple from CT, a structural engineer from Plano now living in SF, a recent widower taking a first trip after losing his wife, sisters from Chicago/CO, and an Amish family from Michigan (husband mills the wood that is turned assembled into pallets).

It was dark upon reaching Reno so we missed going through Nevada in daylight.  Woke up in Salt Lake City as the sun rose.  Saw beautiful terrain in Utah and Colorado. Taking photos from a moving train tends to have most of them end up blurry.  Especially my terrible photo of a bald eagle!

We got delayed again a bit longer in Grand Junction/Glenwood Springs stops so missed some of the mountains in sunlight, but still gorgeous golden hour as we entered the mountains.

Somehow our cabin door broke, but we were able to make do.  Had my first wet shower experience. You shut the toilet lid and pull down a cover for the TP to keep it dry. Amtrak provided soap/linens/towels - bring other toiletries. 

Learned about a handy website to track where an Amtrak train is on the rails. The food was just ok. The menu does not change daily. Nothing like on the Maharajas Express or Indian Pacific, but we were there to see the vistas along the journey!

Enjoy these lovely photos from along the rails.

Hopped off for first time at Fraser, CO.  Memories of ski train several years ago from there to Denver.

First time in Nebraska!  It was so cold!

Had breakfast while riding through Omaha. I only lasted a few minutes in the 30 degree weather without my jacket once we stopped.

First time in Iowa!

Crossing the Mississippi

lovely farmland

Made it to Chicago!

We arrived roughly 5-6 hours late so some people I had met on the ride had to rush to their next train. A few had missed their connections since we were so delayed. 

Inside Union Station

After checking in our hotel, which had an amazing view of the river, we stopped in the Champagne building we were rejected from on our last trip.  They do not allow kids and we had our toddler with us then. Did not get any good photos from this portion of the visit.

Then it was time to go to The Second City comedy show.

Stopped at Portillos for a hot dog on our way back to the hotel.

The following morning after I refueled with chai and breakfast, we said goodbye to our room view and I got a pedicure.

After eating some delicious pizza at Pizzeria Uno we headed to the airport to fly home. The deep dish takes time so don't be in a rush! Really enjoyed my 40th birthday train adventure! I'm ready to go again!